Why does my fluidmaster

Follow these steps to clean the valve: Turn off water and flush the toilet. Video: How to Fix a Running toilet. Search our entire repair database for your solution:. By continuing to use our site you consent to our use of cookies, which is described further here. If you are a California resident, click here to understand how we use your personal information. Close Privacy Overview This website uses cookies to improve your experience while you navigate through the website.

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But opting out of some of these cookies may have an effect on your browsing experience. Your toilet has internal leaks 2. Your toilet has external leaks 1. Here are some solutions for internal leaks water draining into bowl : Check refill tube first: If refill tube is inserted too far into the overflow pipe, pull it out and reattach to outside of overflow pipe.

Replace flapper if this does not resolve toilet running. Replace entire flush valve if steps a and b do not resolve issue.

Here are some solutions for water visible outside toilet: Water visible to rear of toilet is most likely coming from the bottom of the fill valve, the water supply line or the seals between the tank and the bowl in 2 piece toilets.

Water dripping from bottom of the tank: Observe and ensure the fill valve locknut, located under the tank, is tight against the ceramic tank. If necessary, remove fill valve and clean bottom of tank both inside and outside ensuring shank washer is placed on the fill valve first before inserting valve through hole in ceramic it is designed to seal the tank from the inside the tank.

Reinstall existing valve or replace with new one. Hand tighten the fill valve lock nut. Turn off the water supply. Push the float cup down on to the valve shaft and turn it one-eighth turn clockwise to lock it into place. Ensure that the clip at the end of the float cup clicks into the groove on the lever arm. Emrah Oruc is a general contractor, freelance writer and former race-car mechanic who has written professionally since He has been published in "The Family Handyman" magazine and has experience as a consultant developing and delivering end-user training.

Oruc holds a Bachelor of Arts in political science and a minor in economics from the University of Delaware. Okay, this will answer what a couple of people have asked. The tube is not stuck down in the overflow tube actually it was, but I went out and got a new assembly for that and it is no longer there, but nicely clipped to the top of the overflow tube as in the pictures.

What is happening is that the water is constantly coming out of therubber hose that is connected to the top of the overflow tube. I have the float set as low as possible. It stops filling forcefully when it gets to a certain point, but then there is a steady stream coming out of the rubber tube that goes from the top of the float assembly and is clipped onto the overflow tube. The float ends up under water actually. As I say I removed the entire cap assembly from a working toilet and put it on the running toilet and the running toilet still ran.

Similarly the cap from the running toilet did not mess up the working toilet -- it worked with the running toilet's cap assembly. A couple of people are saying probably the tube is cracked perhaps and I have to replace the whole thing? Now that I see where my post went amongst all the responses -- thanks to everyone for responding.

It is impressive that you take time to try to help and it certainly lessens my frustration. I am a little concerned about trying to put in the whole assembly, though, if that is what is needed. Is there some test to see if that tube is cracked? Or, perhaps is there a more detailed description of the installation process than what fluidmaster provides?

One that doesn't assume a thing? Judy replace it as DLH stated! That is what I would have done originally. These things only cost bucks and arem't worth playing with. I would only add one thing. Replace the supply line from the stop valve coming out of the floor or, wall to the toilet tank with a braided stainless steel closet supply as well when you do it. Do not use Floodsafe connectors like the one pictured below. They have a valve on the small dia end that allegedly will shut off if the hose breaks.

The problem is they are prone to nusance trips while the toilet is filling and the connection just before the valve is a weak link that I have seen break and flood a house. The funny thing is I have never seen one of those hoses break so I question why the product was ever needed. Its just one of those situations where the cure is worse than the problem. Okay, on my schedule today is to brave the weekend crowds at Home Depot and get a replacement thing.

I will look for a replacement tube also although the current one looks like it has a bit of extra length there. Re-reading all the suggestions -- could it be the flapper valve? I never thought of that as the refill one never shuts off so I just assumed that was the problem. Maybe I am looking at the wrong side of things? I think one or two of the responses was suggesting that as the cause.

I just don't see how anything but the cap could really be causing the refill valve to run.